Showing posts with label Jean Paul Gaultier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jean Paul Gaultier. Show all posts

Thursday, December 10, 2009

It's Panty Party at Jean Paul Gaultier!

How do you design for a generation that believes in "Nothing risqued, nothing gained!" , a time when runway looks are deemed conservative and the young things in limelight believe in voyeurism as the supreme form of entertainment? A case in point is the incident during Spring Summer 2010 fashion week which saw Rihanna alter a Gareth Pugh dress from the same season to provoke, shock and thereby enhance her recall factor.

So on one side you have the younglings daring to bare and on the other side the designers struggling to stay afloat in a sinking economy. Add to that the rich tightening their purses, probably investing their money elsewhere what with the stock prices plummeting and stars like Rihanna combing Paris to build a wardrobe for her next performance. And Jean Paul Gaultier realises which side his bread is buttered on, and comes up with a ready to wear collection not for the elegant ladies of pony riding classes but for the likes of Lady Gaga, Kate Perry, Rihanna and their clan who like flaunting their well toned bodies in little nothings!

He starts by naming the collection "G-spot" and before you raise a hammer, the G is for "guêpière", (the French word for "waspie" or wasp-waist) girdle and garter and all the other little things in your wardrobe, for his collection was a lingerie fest taken to the extreme with girls sauntering down the runway in delicately constructed cone-bras, corsets, basques, trompe l'oeil tights resembling stockings and French knickers, leaving the likes of MIA spoilt for choice and tempting the likes of Paris Hilton to consider wearing knickers again, all the while emphatically establishing Jean as the ultimate king of underwear!


Now to put some clothes on the models who had their names written across their chest or down their neck in Gothic style, Jean Paul Gaultier started with denim dungarees casually tossed on tough worker women dressed indifferently not caring much whether their lingerie is peeking out or not.


This was followed by an even tougher bunch of girls who looked as if they had just emerged from a knife-wielding-gang-war what with their Brenton striped tops slashed along the stripes and rewrapped around their bodies as tops and tight mini-dresses!


A closeup of the girls after their tough encounter shows them to be real dare devils with their hats cocked to one side and their tattered clothes revealing their pointy satin cone bras armouring and protecting their life and femininity!


The focus gradually shifts to another part where "once-fashionistas" deeply dissatisfied with the happenings on the street, decide to take law into their own hands and prepare for a guerrilla war of sorts, mixing their miniskirts, monokinis and bondage boots with traditional military wear of khaki pants and long trench coats!


Even the power wielding corporate barons of Wall Street and La Défense decide to give their support to this "we need no clothes" recession inspired minimalism by carelessly tossing their jackets over their "couture" lingerie serving as bullet proof vests and proving that what lies underneath can very well serve as outerwear!


Meet the leader of the brigand, ready for combat with her gun belt slung around her waist and stomach padded to protect against the on slaughter of bullets!


As the "lingerie revolution" gains currency, corporate women to athletes to young girls adopt the display of girdles and cone bras as the de rigueur way of dressing with the girdles serving as miniskirts and cone bras morphing into shoulder and bum pads!


The party girls dressed themselves in techno orange and lemon yellow dresses with enough emphasis on lingerie!


The red carpet looks were executed either as long flowing gowns puncuated with cone bras or girdles or as embellished gowns generously slit in the front to prominently display bras or as "Lady Gaga dresses" tightly hugging the body either as a long laced "corset gown" or as a shiny body suit with patches of black protecting the wearer's modesty!


It's noteworthy that the armful of leather gauntlets formed of brightly colored leather strips that hung loosely on the model's slim arms were in fact inspired by the plastic bangles worn by Rajasthani tribal woman!


The accessories were in tandem with the wild mood in the street with thick chains adorning the necks and ears, big bright plastic bangles bulking up the hands and bondage boots and heels protecting the legs!


Apart from the "extraBRAganza" on display, the collection offered mostly performance clothes befitting a rock star excepting a few tuxedos, trench coats and dresses! Overall a very entertaining collection, though tighter edition would have rendered the collection less repetitive!

Image Source:www.catwalking.com www.coutorture.com
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Friday, July 17, 2009

Mirror, Mirror, On The Wall, Who is the worst of them all?

The Fall 2009 Haute Couture held last week had its share of amazing clothes excellent in concept and workmanship and the "not so brilliant" ones that got passed over as modern, practical, wearable clothes in line with the current stormy economic weather. Is every single haute couture dress worth the six figure price tag?And more importantly, did they all evoke in you a "lust tornado" of similar intensity?Given below are some of the dresses that made me shriek in horror and wouldn't have had me spend even a $100 on them, leave alone anything more!These can be best described as either modern but mediocre or ornate but impractical! Do you concur with me?

Alexis Mabille Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Jumpsuits are a rage this year, but seriously that doesn't mean a shape wear would justify a six figure tag?As for the piece in the center, Mr.Mabille would you please care to explain the workmanship, the skill and the complex thought process involved in the making of the same?While you do give fillip to the tailor at the street corner making him feel that he too or for that matter anyone with a piece of cloth to spare can be a couturier, is that benevolent thought alone worth the hefty price?

Alexis Mabille Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Sweeping the floor as you walk along might be a noble task, but even that nobility isn't sufficient enough to justify itself as haute couture!

Left to Right: (Stephane Rolland, Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier) Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Though Chanel tried to incorporate a "twist" to its signature tweed skirt suits in the form of a tail, Karl Lagerfeld's "New Look" created the image of a girl who took her table cloth with her wherever she went!It was neither aesthetic nor quirky nor sophisticated just plain ridiculous! As for Stephane Rolland's dress, even the word simple is too much to describe his white gown, maybe he wants to give people who cannot afford his clothes a few simple designs to take to their tailor and have it copied! And Jean Paul Gaultier's black dress can be made good use of on a Halloween night!


Left to Right: (Givenchy, Valentino, Givenchy) Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Just when Nicolas Sarkozy got rid of the burka from the streets of Paris, Givenchy to everyone's horror puts it back on the runway! Valentino - little black dress? Yes, classic? a resounding NO, looks like some prehistoric animal inspired horror!And whats with the silhouette of Givenchy's black crystal pants? Horror in black best describes these dresses!

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Haute Couture

"Less is more" is what is missing in these Dior dresses.The center one is nothing short of clownish, as if the lady is carrying two large totes on either arm and the color too is bordering on loud and the voluminous silhouette has become sooooo synonymous with Dior, that it would do Dior good if it could go do away with volume for some time!While the pink dress has all the couture worthiness in terms of brilliant embroidery, it so grossly exaggerates the very part(derrière), which women go to any extent(right from spending millions to starving) to keep minuscule!For Dior its time to do away with theatrical excess and embrace simplicity!!

Haute couture is not just about workmanship and skill, which, perfected over the years, have become second nature for these fashion houses.Real Haute Couture is being avant-garde while still staying relevant to the prevailing times, and not just ornateness clothed by anarchism !!

Image Source:www.catwalking.com

Monday, July 13, 2009

"Yes, I do.", the Haute Couture way!!

This Haute Couture season held in the wake of an economic recession had drawn mixed reactions from the fashion population, while some termed the simplicity prevalent in many collections as the future of couture which held wearability as its prime focus, others blamed the designers for swimming inside tested waters.Perhaps the stressful life that people led these days added extra weight to their expectations from Couture as a means of "fashion escapism" and perhaps, the equally stressed out designers trying to balance their creativity with their company's bottomline, in an ardent effort to stay afloat, didn't venture much into unknown territories but rather crouched inside a boundary of "guarded optimism" to produce collections that instead of torching a new fashion trail, relished and relived the glorious days of the past.The only exception being Christian Lacroix, the very company on the brink of bankruptcy, that ended up producing the best collection of this season proving that unparalleled creativity cannot be stymied by budgetary restrictions.

The bridal gown of Haute Couture always hold a special place, for, that is the one look that sums up the entire collection. All the bridal looks of Fall 2009's Haute Couture have been summarised here.Tell me which one would make you desperate to walk the aisle?

Christian Lacroix Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Christian Lacroix's show lent credibility to the saying that "All good things must come to an end.".In what could be the design house's last collection(unless it finds a suitable investor), the house has proved that even its financial turmoil could not strip away the finesse it has been known for! The bridal dress beautifully amalgamated all the elements that uniquely identified the design house, namely artfully worked laces, delicate tulle, fine embroidery,rich colors (brought out by roses in bright colors),and flowers.If Marie Antoinette had been a bride today, we know what she would be wearing!

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Elie Saab's all white collection(similar to Chanel's white collection last season), was a stellar example of what creativity can do with just a single hue, the bridal dress shown here is a testament to the detailing that went into the entire collection.The intricate detailing found on each of the forty six white dresses comprising the collection, makes them all double up as bridal dresses as well!Be it a crystal studded jumpsuit or fur trimmed jackets or short skirts or organza flower decorated evening dresses, the collection had it all, making the brides truly spoilt for choice.


Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Haute Couture

"Take Fashion, ACTION!" screamed Gaultier's show!! An ode to Hollywood, with images of yesteryear's actresses floating on a screen offered the perfect atmosphere for the uber glamorous collection done the Gaultier way!! Similar to the bridal dress, this collection is not for the faint of heart, heavy fur coats, 3-D geometric dresses in sparking metal with conical bras, overalls in crocodile were all designed to bring out the rock star chic in you, that is, if you dare to reveal that side of you to the outside world.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Christian Dior's focus, this season, on "innerwear as outerwear" extended to the bridal gown as well.Like the bridal gown, the collection was deft in its artistry and workmanship, the only caveat being the lack of the "unseen", the show like the gown, was too familiar and strongly circled within Galliano territory!

Chanel Fall 2009 Haute Couture

This season Chanel focused on the house's raison d'etre of tweed suits and delicate evening gowns, the only addition being the "Superman like cape" behind the dresses much like the one seen in the bridal dress.Fashion tribes dubbed the extension as "tails", whether they will don one is a bit doubtful but Karl Lagerfeld did use them cleverly to frame his dresses and attract attention to a collection that might otherwise have been passed over as "the familiar".The "tails" were what the corsets were to Galliano, adding a new dimension to a familiar look.

Givenchy Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Ever dreamt of a Celtic wedding? Givenchy might be the answer to that dream, what with their collection loaded with heavy embellishments, chunky jewellery, spiked headgear and bracelets, accessorizing dresses with sharp tailoring and geometric cuts! A warrior princess could essentially wear everything from the collection, for rest its a slim picking!

On Aura Tout Vu Fall 2009 Haute Couture

On Aura Tout Vu's collection says "Get close to nature"! In addition to an earthy palette comprising of nudes and grays, the collection included plenty of colorful accessories in the form of twigs and feathers and dresses embellished with peacock feathers and 3d leaves.An ideal countryside wedding would benefit from this collection, arty and modern.

Stephane Rolland Fall 2009 Haute Couture

Stephane Rolland, the latest addition to the Haute Couture family, maintains a tensile balance between modernity, simplicity and sophistication.This season the focus was on the shoulders with dresses cut close to the body and sporting geometric embellishments accentuating a long slender silhouette much like the wedding dress seen above, a perfect wedding dress for the second time bride!

On the whole, though the melancholy of recession did have a heavy bearing on the Haute Couture season at least in terms of lack of outlandish experiments, it still held fast to the very corner stones of Couture namely intricate and skilled craftsmanship with a paradigm shift towards modernity where couture had transcended from the aristocratic princesses who spent a large part of their time preening themselves in front of the mirror to the power women of today with a strong need to incorporate sophistication into her wardrobe without appearing too made up or archaic!! Long live Couture!

Image Source:www.catwalking.com

Monday, March 30, 2009

Spring Trends 2009 : Go Nude

Spring usually evokes thoughts of bright colors, of lime green, fuchsia, orange and canary yellow.While all these colors are definitely welcome, given the overload of grays and blacks done during Fall, this spring it is worth tucking in some neutral shades in between the brights, for not only do they break the pattern of your dressing, but also avoid you being labelled as "Miss Flash Light", and remember the more extensive your color palette, the broader are your options of mix and match.

One common concern regarding the color is of doing it without looking pale and washed out.Another most used to perception is, think nude, think formals, most cannot think beyond the nude trousers.The beauty of the color is that it can be worked in many different ways, right from a canvas for embellishments(they make them stand out making you the shimmering queen of the evening), to creating contrasting looks with colors like black, violet to just plain nude with interesting details worked in, the options are truly endless.

The important trick in working nude is to subtly contrast the look with your skin tone.If you choose to do nude in a shade close to your skin color, contrast it with black or go in for shimmer or embellishments as they make the look stand out.In case of doing plain vanilla nude, choose a shade at least two shades lighter than your skin tone, and make sure the dress has some detailing in the form of frills, origami folds, ruffles or layering.Still left wondering how to get your nude look right? Learn from the runways of Spring 2009 Ready-To-Wear, to play with nude in more ways than one!!


On my way back from the crafts class.

Spot me!!

I'm a girl of sharp contrasts.

I gotta go swimming after the party.

I'm the definition of power dressing.

I'm the centre of the universe.

I'm all tied to myself.

Did I just step out of your dream?

Image Source:www.style.com

Friday, February 6, 2009

Haute Couture Brides of Spring 2009

What makes a haute couture bride? Bold, elegant and most important of all, wears the most extravagantly edgy wedding dress.Baring the affordability factor, tell me whether you can see yourself in any of these dresses on your D day?

Am I not a vision?

Hey, where is my bridal veil ?

What if he forgets the wedding?

I cannot wait to wed my prince charming!!


Image Source:www.style.com