Friday, October 23, 2009

"Here a shoulder, there a shoulder" at Comme des Garçons

Creator: Rei Kawakubo

Show: Spring Summer 2010 RTW (Women)

Date Held: Oct 2nd 2009

Place: Avenue de Wagram, Paris

Inspiration: Fashion's creative force seesawing with greedy consumerism, adult delinquents, shoulder pads

Color Palette: Varied- bright colors like red, orange, pink, gold, military green, beige, blended with Rei's usual colors of black and white

Collection's Composition: Shoulders being the main focus, the collection comprised of leather shoulder braces, jackets and dresses "embellished" with shoulder parts of jackets in various colors and patterns, skirts and dresses constructed from a collage of fabrics including brocade, silk and sequin scraps, floor length transparent beige trench coats; all their volume counterbalanced by either plain trousers or polka dotted biker shorts worn over black hose.

Accessories: Extreme candy flossed hair in pink, lime and lilac, decorated with giant safety pins and little conical hats by Stephen Jones, little lace-up shoes

Pièces de résistance:

Philosophy Behind Collection: Rei emphasised creativity as the driving force behind fashion as opposed to mindless commercialisation realised through the herd mentality towards prevalent trends. She made her point by poking fun at fashion's current obsession with 80's inspired grand shoulders and proved that she can express any trend in her collection through her own language of deconstruction and superior creativity.She had dresses and jackets not made with pointy attention seeking shoulders but rather used shoulders of various jackets as ornaments for her clothes.

Targeted Buyers: Comme des Garçons' typical customer namely the art student or one with extreme sensitivity to the nuances of fashion. In a word, for the anti-fashion minority!

High Points: This collection once again proved Rei's superior craftsmanship in addition to her extreme creativity manifested through her strong command of deconstruction.The inclusion of rich colors, this spring, through the coercion of a multitude of fabrics creates a strong visual impact.

Low Points: Though an exemplary collection, this is not one of Rei Kawakubo's defining collections as she pretty much stayed within her comfort zone of seen before techniques of deconstruction.


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